Airbrush-Dreams.com
Tips & Tricks

 

Today we are going to walk through The creation of the Airbrush Dreams Company t-shirt. Each step is a combination of colors and methods for developing a more dynamic image on a t-shirt. Airbrushing on a t-shirt is a wonderful way of getting you art work into the public eye and is your personal billboard. The most important thing is to create a t-shirt that catches the eye of people walking by and gets that WOW factor. This is done by using a dynamic range of colors and wild imagery. Don't be afraid to go bold with you colors. There is no right or wong way to do this one, so lets have some fun with your airbrush.

 

In this first step I started out by laying out my base line drawing with an orange pencil and taping off the collar and sleeves to keep them nice and clean. This also helps to make the background color jump off the shirt. I use black which is unlike working in portraits and animals. I started with the skull and work my way down to the airbrush. I use the black to create not only dark solid areas, but shades of gray. I carefully paint in all my details around the eyes, hand and even the tip of the airbrush. I use shading with the black to create the base work for this strong and bold image. I am very careful to create clean sharp edges so that later the art work will not become flat and lifeless.

 

 

Now I go into creating the yellow glow from the lettering which will be a fire text. The yellow will actually be the main light source from the bottom, so I concentrated on the lower protruding edges. I even through in the reflection of the lettering on the airbrush since it is chrome and would reflect the colors surrounding it. At this point the yellow is just a base color and I spray it freely without too much concern since a lot of it will end up covered.

 

 

Now I work in my reds. I mist over the yellow to create an orange and work the red into some of the whites. This is still to create that lower light source reflection on the skull and fingers. I make sure I leave some whites showing through so that I can have a clean light source from above. I also refrain from covering all the yellow because this helps to keep the painting from becoming muddy and monochrome looking. This all helps to keep the painting bold with a wide spectrum of color.

 

 

In this step I add in the upper light source color of blue. It is all done with a mist of blue which ranges from a light value to a darker value to create the shadow areas. I work carefully to create a three dimensional image not only around the skull and fingers, but around the eye. Being that the eye is a round object with two light sources there is more shading on the sides then on the the top and bottom. I also mist over the top edge to create the depth between the brow and the eye. I have also used the blue as my eye color so I created this with a combination of short faint dagger strokes and faint lines and then a mist of blue. Next I work in some solid whites around the bottom of the iris for light that penetrates the cornea and then mist lightly with blue over the white.

 

This next step I have gone in with white to bring out the highlights and to brighten up the image. I chose to keep the light source from the bottom stronger than the top which creates that strong glow. Yes I have covered some of my yellow which will be touched up later. I also bring out the texture of the skull and the reflection of the light hitting the eye. Since I chose to create the stronger lower light source from the bottom I do the same technique on the eye with white and then misting the blue to create the light penetrating in the opposite direction from what I created in the last step. I work all the edges that will protrude and catch light such as the brow the teeth, chin and fingers. The brightest will be the areas closest to the light source.

 

 

After Working in the highlights with white I then mist over with yellow, red and blue. I avoid over saturating with these colors, so that I do not loose the highlights created with the white. I also work in a reflection of color into the eye and the chrome of the airbrush. I work red into the flames of the lettering and keep them vary free flowing. On the highlights I work back and forth between colors building layers which helps to bring out the depth of the image. I also use the blue to push back the shadow areas.

 

 
Now I work in the black on the chrome of the airbrush. One important thing to remember is that chrome has no color, but is the reflection of the colors around it. I used a reference photo for this image which I had my daughter take a picture of me holding the airbrush so you are actually seeing a reflection of my studio area into my living room. I also have left reds so that it reflects the text color. I also work with black around the skull to sharpen edges and to create high contrast.
   
In this next step I have misted vary lightly with yellow onto the whites to give that fire glow and I have added blue to the airbrush to reflect the upper light source. I have also worked some of the blues into the fingers.
   
Again I go back to my whites to enhance all the highlights and to brighten up the image. I avoid solid white, but just misting with a tinting white to bring back the edges and shape of the airbrush, skull and fingers. And then I go back to the misting of the corresponding colors for each light source. This step has really brought out that chrome look on the airbrush and made the skull pop out. I have also worked this same technique on the flame lettering.
   
Next I add the background color which is actually four colors. I first start by placing what is called a knock out stencil over the foreground. This sounds strange, but I spray a piece of wax paper with re-positional spray adhesive and roll it down to the shirt with a clean roller. Next with a #11 exacto blade I lightly cut the wax paper to create a negative stencil. I then remove the paper covering the background. I start with red for a third light source from behind and fade it out towards the outside. Next I blend in blue and violet working it out towards the outer edges of the shirt. Then I work black from the outside edges toward the center and using soft misty strokes to create a smoky feel to the background remembering to leave color bleeding through the black.
   
The last step is to soften the edges of the whole design and touch up any gaps that were created by the stencil. I carefully go over the design to touch up any areas I am not happy with and add fine detail work like textures and sharpening edges. I have also gone around the outer edges of the flaming text with black to make the lettering stand out. Above the text I mist some white to bring out a smoke rising from the flame. I then mist over the flames with blue and violet and finish with a few sharp lines of white to give the feeling of movement of the smoke dancing around the airbrush. I also touch up colors around the hand and airbrush to more reflect the flames and smoke.


Airbrush: Iwata HP-BCS
Colors: Createx Wicked Colors
T-Shirt: 100% Cotton
Heat Press: Hix Presto 16


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